Chifa: From Misunderstood to Highly Sought After

On the evening of the 6th, Peruvian culinary master Gaston Acurio, along with a group of top Peruvian chefs, visited "Four Seas One Family." According to Lu Xiao, the owner of "Four Seas One Family," Acurio not only sampled new dishes such as "Cold Mixed Shark Skin," but also expressed his desire to learn from Chinese cuisine, hoping to gain inspiration and further promote the integration of the two countries' culinary cultures. In fact, the fusion of Chinese and Peruvian culinary cultures can be traced back to the mid-19th century. Between 1849 and 1874, 100,000 laborers came to Peru to work, marry, and live. They not only made significant contributions to Peru's economic development but also made Chinese cuisine an important part of Peruvian culinary culture.

What is Chinese food in Peru like?

Rice has always been the main food for residents of southern China. For immigrants who came to Peru, rice was indispensable, and rice cultivation was thus brought to Peru. During this period, the famous overseas Chinese leader Dai Zonghan made outstanding contributions to the promotion of rice cultivation in Peru. In 19th-century Peru, fried rice was often associated with the Cantonese term "Chop Suey" (meaning mixed scraps or offal), indicating that the ingredients used were once cheaper and less expensive. Today in Peru, fried rice is called "chaufa," and like "chifa," it has become a local term that everyone understands. In terms of cooking methods and taste, Peruvian fried rice is not much different from what you eat in Chinatowns in other countries, but in terms of its popularity here, it is no different from Guangdong.

Almost every Peruvian household has a Chinese-style round-bottomed wok, and almost every household knows how to make fried rice. After all, worldwide, only China and France (called sauté in French) are skilled in the cooking method of "stir-frying." However, French culture has never had a significant impact on Peru, so it can only originate from Chinese cuisine.

This influence is not exaggerated, as can be seen from the names of some ingredients in Peru. In Spain, ginger is called "jengibre," which, like the English "ginger," comes from Latin. However, in the "Latin American Spanish" of Peru, people prefer to call it "kion," which comes from Cantonese. This suggests that Chinese immigrants may have brought ginger to Peru before the Spaniards. Here, scallions are called "cebolla china" (Chinese onion), and soy sauce is called "sillao" (Cantonese for soy sauce). Dishes in Peruvian Chinese restaurants that directly use Cantonese names include: tipakay (琵琶鸡), limón kay (柠檬鸡), chijaukay (柱候鸡), and kanlu wanta (锦卤云吞), etc. Few locals will know the exact meaning of these words, but they seem to know what to order. Walking into any local supermarket, you will find a whole row of Chinese ingredients: napa cabbage, Chinese flowering cabbage, egg noodles, wonton wrappers, sesame oil, canned mushrooms... All of the above have entered the homes of ordinary Peruvians, and soy sauce is almost a must-have in every household.

In addition to changes in ingredients, two "national dishes" in Peru also appear on the menus of various restaurants as examples of the fusion of Chinese and Peruvian culinary cultures.

The first is lomo saltado. "Lomo" in Spanish means "loin," and "saltado" means "stir-fried." It is actually stir-fried beef loin cut into long strips, marinated with onions and tomatoes, seasoned with soy sauce, salt, and pepper, sprinkled with scallions, and served with rice. In Chinese, "tomato beef with rice" might be a more accurate description.

The second is tacu-tacu. Originally a dish from African laborers, it was brought to Peru by European colonists in the Americas and became popular in many South American countries. Tacu-tacu literally means "stir stir" and can be translated as Peruvian mixed rice. It is now made by stir-frying rice with lentils, cotton beans, green beans, eggs, minced meat, and beef loin, served with onion sauce and olive oil. Before the arrival of the Chinese, this dish was boiled.

From Misunderstanding to Popularity

From the arrival of the first immigrants to before 1920, the lifestyle of Chinese immigrants was not accepted by the locals and local Europeans, and they often held discriminatory attitudes towards Chinese food. The Chinese immigrants who settled in Lima first lived on Jaban Street, which was connected to the central market. This street was demolished in 1909 due to complaints from other Lima residents. On May 2, 1895, the Lima Commercial News published an article about the situation of the Chinese on Jaban Street. From this report, one can feel the rejection of Chinese immigrants by the Peruvian upper class at that time: "Last night on Jaban Street, a brightly lit small house stood out. Through the cracks in the door, one could see about 300 coolies performing some kind of religious ceremony. A particularly noticeable aspect of this nighttime gathering was the stench emanating from it, the strong smell from the opium they habitually used to relieve boredom during the gathering."

The aversion to the lifestyle of Chinese immigrants was naturally reflected in the ridicule of Chinese food. Due to their limited knowledge of China and lack of communication with Chinese immigrants, Peruvians at that time believed that the Chinese ate all kinds of animals and even rotten food —that is, kimchi—which were considered very strange eating habits. They rumored that there were restaurants that used dog meat to make steak, and even worse, that human meat was found. Some people began to complain about the hygiene conditions of Chinese restaurants. Eventually, the Lima city government's health inspection department, through continuous inspections of restaurants and food stores in Chinatown, found that all catering establishments met hygiene requirements, and gradually, the rumors were debunked. Peruvians gradually could not resist the deliciousness of Chinese food, and all prejudices disappeared, and Chinese food began to become popular in Peru.

On March 14, 1920, the Lima Commercial News published an article titled "Construction of a Chinese Theater in Lima," showcasing a dramatic shift in attitude: "The theater will include a luxurious Chinese restaurant, 21 meters long and 11 meters wide, offering exclusively Chinese cuisine. The restaurant will boast a magnificent decor and a diverse menu...The restaurant will also feature private rooms suitable for family dining. Despite this, the prices here will be as affordable as any Chinese restaurant in Lima."

Peruvians' attitudes towards Chinese food changed, transforming from ridicule and disdain to widespread societal embrace. Documents indicate that intellectuals of the time referred to Chinese cuisine as "a leading element of civilization."

After 1915, intellectuals and artists frequented Chinatown. In 1922, El Mundo magazine published a large photograph with the caption: A Chinese lunch. El Mundo's staff celebrated the magazine's anniversary at a newly opened Asian restaurant with a beautiful ambiance, called the Guangdong Restaurant. Another reason for the rise in popularity of Chinese restaurants was their affordability while maintaining food quality.

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, along with Chinese restaurants, employing Chinese chefs became fashionable in Peru. A family employing a Chinese chef was considered a luxury afforded only by the wealthy. Lima painter Juan Ugarte Elorreburu stated: "Between 1918 and 1920, my family employed a Chinese chef, which was very fashionable at the time, because the Chinese were absolutely excellent cooks. They had great culinary skills, could prepare many dishes, and their interpretations of local Peruvian cuisine were amazing." This significantly increased the influence of Chinese cuisine in Peru.

Today, after generations of hard work by Chinese people, Chinese food has become part of everyday life in Peru. The thousands of Chinese restaurants in Peru are also an important economic pillar for the Chinese community there. According to statistics, Chinese restaurants currently rank second in terms of turnover in the Peruvian restaurant industry, only behind rotisserie chicken restaurants. With changing times, people's eating habits and needs will inevitably change, and Chinese restaurants also need to strive for transformation in terms of menu innovation and management.

The ending of the film "Wong Fei Hung" perhaps explains everything. At that time, the admiral asked Wong Fei Hung: "Gold Mountain, is there really a Gold Mountain in the world?" Wong Fei Hung said: "If there really is a Gold Mountain in this world, why would these foreign ships come to our ports? Perhaps we are already standing on Gold Mountain." Yes, the profound and extensive Chinese culture itself is a Gold Mountain.